INTEGRATED CURRICULUM DEVELOPMENTOF FASHION DESIGN PROGRAM IN SMKN 3 MALANG INDONESIA

Sri Sulistyorini 1 , Purnomo 2 , Agus Hery and Supadmi Irianti 3 . 1. Magister program, Vocational Education Program, State University of Malang Indonesia. 2. Lecturer, Post Graduate Program, Vocational Education Program, State University of Malang Indonesia. 3. Lecturer, Post Graduate Program, Vocational Education Program, State University of Malang Indonesia. ...................................................................................................................... Manuscript Info Abstract ......................... ........................................................................ Manuscript History

This research reveals the development of fashion design curriculum conducted by State Vocational High School (SekolahMenengahKejuruan -SMK) 3 in Malang, East Java, Indonesia. Curriculum development was done to suit local needs. Each SMK develops a curriculum on different emphasizes. This research uses qualitative method with descriptive case study approach. Data collection technique through interviews, observation and documentation. Data sources were obtained from informants selected by purposive technique. Informants were selected and considered to know the required information of the principal, the head of program of expertise, teachers and students. The result of this curriculum development researchin SMKN 3 Malang Indonesia are divided into 3 categories namely: entrepreneurship class, design class, and dress making class. The development has been going well for the last 10 years. Entrepreneur fashion class integrated entrepreneurial skills in learning so that students become independent entrepreneurs, clothing design class integrates the potential of fashion design on learning to deepen fashion, and the dress making class to make students proficient in sewing. The learning in SMKN 3 Malang is based on the curriculum 2013syllabus. Suggestions given by the researcher are: (1) Curriculum development by involving business world, so that the skill delivered by teacher in learning match to the requirement in work world; (2) The developed curriculum is well documented that it can be used as an evaluation material in the future; (3) Learning is suggested to involve fashion practitioners and entrepreneurs, such as designers, boutique owners, garment owners, owner of atelier, in order to motivate and inspire students in dealing with work calls; (4) Assistance by government and schools for graduates who are selfemployed in the form of business management training and capital assistance.  This research uses qualitative method with descriptive case study approach, qualitative design has the characteristics  such as: to understand the phenomenon of what is experienced by research subjects such as behavior, perception,  motivation, action, etc., holistically, and by way of description in the form of words and languages, to a specific, natural context and by utilizing natural methods by Cresswell (2014, p.247-249). Next, Yin (2011, p.8) says, "Qualitative research is driven by a desire to explain these events, through existing or emerging concepts". It is also said by Denzin and Lincoln (2000) in the Ospina (2004, p. 2) that "qualitative research involves an interpretive and naturalistic approach: To interpret, phenomena in terms of the meanings people bring to them. While Patton (2001) in Golafsani (2003, p.6) argued, "Qualitative research uses a naturalistic approach that seeks to understand phenomena incontext-specific settings, such as" real world setting [where] the researcher does not attempt to manipulate The phenomenon of interest." The collection of qualitative research data is conceptual, conceptual, ultimate post conceptual and ulterior conceptual, Ulfatin (2015, p.167). Researcher collected data through documentation, behavioral observation, and interviews with participants. In this research, the researcher's presence as a full observer on all subjects that will be explored and observed the learning process activities. Creswell (2014) stated, "researchers engage in sustained and ongoing experience with participants". Steps taken by researchers to obtain the necessary data and meet the subject of research through orientation, exploration, and re-checking.
Creswell (2017, 252) said the collection of research data, include: (1) limiting research; (2) collect information through observation and interview; (3) documentation; (4) visual materials; and (5) design protocols for recording / recording information, for example: title, instructions to be followed by participants, ice breaker questions and sub questions, thanks to the interviewee, records developmentto see if the primary material shows direct information or material secondary note that comes from the second person.
This research was located in SMKN 3 Malang, East Java province. The research was conducted for 4 months. For the selection of informants was by purposiveway, which was by selecting informants appropriately to obtain reliable information.
The researcher determined the researchfocus to guide the search for information in the field: (1) How the curriculum is developed? (2) How curriculum development is implemented?
Data Analysys:-Data analysis is conducted during and after data collecting from interview result, observation and document searching. Data analysis is performed during the data collection process and after the data collection ends. The data analysis model that the researcher chose is Miles and Huberman model. The activities in data analysis include data reduction, display data, and conclusion drawing/verification. The data collected will be tested for their validity by doing credibilitytest (internal validity), test of transferability (external validity), dependability test (reliability) and confirmability test (Sugiono 2015: 366).
The stages of this research consist of: Preparation: making research framework, selecting research location, clearing permission, choosing informants, preparing research instrument in the form of question framework, maintaining ethics. The stages in the research place include: entering field, data collection. The stages of data processing include: data reduction, data display, data analysis, conclusion.

Research Data Explanation:-
Curriculum as a guideline to implement education, plays an important role in implementing learning in school. The result of observation and interview with some informants, Curriculum used in SMKN 3 Malang Indonesia is the curriculum 2013. Curriculum development in SMKN 3 Malang Indonesia was conducted to improve education services in accordance with the society's needs. Curriculum 2013 development in SMKN 3 Malang was designed and compiled by involving the business world/industrial world, teachers, agencies, and also seeing the needed skills of vocational students in the future.
When the researcher interviewed the headmaster of SMKN 3 Malang-Indonesia Dra.Faizah, M.Pd in her, she said, "generally this curriculum development was the policy from the government, then we developed in accordance with the existing conditions in school and in accordance with experience and needs from year to year, so the development is based on experience". Curriculum development information was reinforced by KristiningBintari, S.Pd as a teacher and the Head of Fashion Design Program about curriculum development, the following interview result, "we conduct the development not from the material but from the class version, in the study program version there are 3 courses consist of entrepreneur class, design class, dress making class. Entrepreneurship class is started in the third semester." Entrepreneur clothing class learning is implemented by integrating entrepreneurial elements in cloth making subjects in grade 11 th and 12 th , for an integrated design class on fashion design subjects, emphasizing the clarity of fashion design, dress making learningclass according to the syllabus in the curriculum 2013.
The headmaster of SMKN 3 Malang confirmed the establishment of entrepreneurial class has been run for long time. Started from the mandate of the Directorate of Vocational High School Development in 2002, to create independent entrepreneurs after graduating from vocational school. The results of interviews with the headmaster also provide information that the school considers the need to continue the program from the Directorate of Vocational School supervisor even though the program had been completed.
The entrepreneurship classes in the 11 th and 12 th grade of SMKN 3 Malang were conducted on the subjects of fashion and cloth making with emphasis on the ability to entrepreneurship. Students in the 12 th grade are taught to receive an order to sew clothes with good result quality. Entrepreneur classrooms are neat and clean. Tools for entrepreneur class uses industrial sewing machines, cloth cutting tables, and benches for theoretical learning. Learning in the 12 th grade of entrepreneurial training targets a minimum turnover of 2 million rupiahs to be achieved by students in running their business. The turnover is obtained from the order of sewing clothes or selling items related to fashion. At the end of the study year, students must make a report on their business management, through entrepreneur test. The examination team consists of small and medium businesses and entrepreneurs in the fashion field. The contents of the report in the form of financial records, records of receipt of orders, records of material needs, customer advice. Entrepreneur class students must present their reports. Students who successfully managed their business, will be given awards in the categories: gold, silver and bronze.
The development implemented by SMKN 3 Malang in clothing program with the design class is to accommodate the talents of SMKN 3 Malang studentsin the field of fashion design. Ana IsroIliani, S.Pd a teacher of 11 th and 12 th grade of fashion design said, "Learners with outstanding talent in fashion and design are given the opportunity to develop their talents. This was revealed to the researcher in the interview with the teacher:"The design class initially accommodates children who have talents in the field of design because when they have talent but do not have a special community will be a waste of time. So the theoretical basis is accommodating students who have design talents".
2803 The learning in design classes, students are trained to read the fashion trend preferred by the society, how to prepare a collection. Selection of materials from local products, often uses scrap cloth as this is being favored. Once a year the fashion design class determines the theme for the design collections. For example, in 11 th grade of fashion design works with the theme of Retro and Vintage in 2016.
The learning in clothing design class is supported by a special room is designed to design clothes. For observations in the field, the researcher see the arrangement and provision of classroom design tools are different from other practice room, this room provided school table which can be set to draw and trace the picture of fashion design.
The dress making learning, implemented according to the clothing syllabus provided by the Ministry of Education and Culture. Students learn and practice making clothes for themselves, without reasonable earnings turnover and model choices. The skills students receive from a vocational school must match to the skills needed in the workplace. The researcher continued the interview with the intention of gaining information related to curriculum development which is about the recruitment of graduates in working world with the integrated curriculumdevelopmentpolicy. For this purpose, the researcher continued by interviewing one of the 12 th grade students of entrepreneur, Evi El Mufarocha, the researcher got the information as follow: "We are indeed booked to work by the industry where we did our practice in the 4 th semester, but from our class there are those who want to continue higher study, almost half of our classroom students who have willing to work are called to work by the industry that they were practiced in".
According to Kartini, S.Pd, a teacher of 12 th grade of fashion design about student's responses when getting a job offer, in an interview submitted the following information, "The average student we have who are not yet graduated already booked to work by our partner industry, but after being directed by teachers, often they do not stay long in work, the reason is because of the salary in the fashion industry still cannot compete, it is better working as Sales Promotion Girls (SPG) ". The researcher further explore this topic by asking the fashion design teacher, and the 2804 information gained by researchers showed that the salary experienced by SMK graduates in the field of clothing in general are paid based on the calculation of work turnover that had been completed without any incentive of other salaries, and the fee in general is still under the regional minimum salary as determined by the government, unless the SMK graduates work in a large clothing company, which already has official permission from the government then the salary received will match the regional minimum salary determined by the government. The relevanceprinciple externally means that the curriculum must be relevant to the demands of science and technology (epistemological relevance), the students demands and potential (psychological relevance), and the social developmentdemands and needs (sociological relevance), are used as the basis for development by SMKN 3 Malang. According to Nicholls and Nicholls (1974, p.65) in Hussain (2011, p.264) stated, "A situation which is made up of a number of factors such as pupils" background, school, its climate, its staff, facilities and equipment.Analysis of factors which constitutes the situation: a) Cultural and social changes and expectations including parental expectations, employer requirements, community assumption and value, changing relationships (e.g. between adults and children) and ideology.b) Educational system requirements and challenges, e.g. Policy statements, examinations, local authority expirations or demands or pressures, curriculum projects, education research.c) The potential contribution of teacher-support system, e.g. Teacher training college, research institutes.e) Pupils: aptitudes, abilities and defined education needs.g) Teachers: value, attitudes, skills knowledge, experience, social strengths and weaknesses, roles.h) School ethos and political structures: Common assumptions and expectations including power conformity to norms and dealing with deviance. i) Material resources including plant, equipment, and potential for enhancing these.j) Perceived and felt problems and shortcomings in existing curriculum.
The continuity principle that theavailable curriculum should have continuity in class level, among educationlevels, or among education levels and types of work used by SMKN 3 Malang. The SMK curriculum should be designed following the available labor market and work types, to make the skills possessed do not experience "sunset skill", Sudira (2016, p. 101). Curriculum development steps by SMKN 3 Malang is to answer those needs.
Entrepreneurship:-Curriculum development of SMK conducted by education unit involving business world / industry world, aim to know the requirement of the latest competency. Vocational High School (SMK) has a big enough opportunity to participate in building the economic system by educating students to be interested becoming an entrepreneur. John (1991) in Kalangi (2010, p.52) defined an entrepreneur as a person who has the ability to plan business, creates additional value through business opportunities, overcomes risk opportunities, has the skills to manage and mobilize human, financial and other resources to achieve the goals. Perspective to the future, entrepreneurs become important, as founders of new firms Gartner (1988) in Rypestol (2017, p.3), entrepreneursplay a vital role in contributing to regional industrial development.

2805
Integrated learning in entrepreneurial clothing is expected to grow entrepreneurship intention for SMK graduates. The entrepreneur intention can be interpreted as the first step of a businessestablishingprocess that is generally longterm Lee & Wong (2004) in Suharti (2011, p.126). Fillon (2008, p. 6) entrepreneurs are people who engage in activities they themselves have designed. An integrated entrepreneurship in clothing learningshows that schools have provided training to manage businesses similar to real conditions, in accordance with Kuratko&Hodgetts (2007) opinion in Apprilianty (2012, p. 313) stated that entrepreneurship has models, processes, and case studies that allow the topic to be studied and the knowledge to be acquired.
Kooi (2015, p. 1) explained, fashion as a word is almost magical and has magnetic effects and many people are part of this hush, hush world of fashion, be it designing, producing, selling or even wearing of the garment piece. The integration of entrepreneurship materials with clothing give meaningful experiences that also trains students to be able managing clothing business, and be able to accept challenges and competition in the business world.
Fashion Design:-In fashion design class, students are trained to be able reading fashion trends, knowing society's demand, and able predicting which design product can be accepted by the fashion market in the upcoming season. The results of Seifert's research (2017, p.262) showed that firms need to be aware of the complexity and novelty are crucial for consumers when judging apparel designs. For that reason, students of fashion design class must also be able presenting a complex new thing in their design to make their work preferred and be liked by the public. The current attention as presented by Johnston (2012) in Henninger's (2016, p. 401) research said that slow fashion and more specifically sustainable fashion seek empower workers throughout the supply chain, utilizing upcycling, recycling, and traditional production techniques, and incorporating renewable and organic raw materials. SMK students must know and follow the flow of fashion world policy such as the use of environmentally friendly materials and renewable materials.
Student skills' formation of in the field of fashion design needs to involve practitioners, however they are more experienced. Thus, SMK cooperation with practitioners needs to be legalized by MoU. Although fashion businessmen and fashion designers are sometimes difficult to work together because of their busy work, among them there must be a care person with SMK progress. However, the experience possessed by the clothing design practitioner needs to be known and followed.
Dress Making:-The learning in dress makingclassroom, following what are provided in the syllabus of fashion design in curriculum 2013. Dress making classdoes not get integrated materials from other subjects. The practice results of cloth making are worn by the students themselves. Teachers provide individual and group guidance and direction, whereas practical tasks are done individually. Dress making class train students to be expert in sewing according to the procedures and on time.

Conclusion:-
After conducting qualitative research by interview, observation and documentation study in SMKN 3 Malang regarding the curriculum development, the researcher concludes as follow: First, curriculum development implemented by SMKN 3 Malang Indonesia pays attention to the principle of: general and special. The general principle of curriculum development includes: relevance, flexibility, continuity, practicality, and effectiveness. The specific principle of curriculum development includes: educational objectives, educational contentselection, teaching and learning processselection, media and lesson toolsselection, and assessment activitiesselection. The curriculumdevelopment by integrating entrepreneurship subjects and fashion designdeepening has been in line with the purpose of vocational education to create self-employed graduates in facing work interview.
Second, the teachers in SMKN 3 Malang creatively combined different learning models and learning resources to present fashion lesson in fun way and fit the target.
Third, graduates of dress design generally get a call from the institution or the fashion industry, but the offer is not necessarily to be accepted and executed by the graduates, for it does not fit with the industry's salary system. There is a phenomenon that the graduates of SMKN 3 Malang continue their education to the higher level.
2806 Suggestion:-Based on the findings of the research, suggestions related to the curriculum development in SMKN 3 Malang are as follow: First, curriculum development is implemented in a planned and documented early in the school year to facilitate the learning implementation during the implementation of teaching and learning activities. Second, the SMKN 3 Malang fashion teachers need to combine the learning model and update the learning resources so that the deliveredknowledge and skill do not decrease or even obsolete. Third, SMKN 3 Malang needs to cooperate with practitioners in the field of entrepreneurship and fashion design, either from home industry or middle and big industries as guest teachers, such as: modiste owner, boutique owner, garment owner, designer, atelier owner. This cooperation can improve students' knowledge, motivation and inspiration. In addition, it can provide an overview for students in the work field they will get later. Fourth, it is better to have a mentoring program from the commander and SMKN 3 Malang for their graduates in running independent business such as capital assistance, business management training, or other relevant training, however facing the business competition needs preparation. With limited experience and as a newcomer in business, graduates need reinforcement and facilitation before the business they founded really go well.